A record-breaking unique watch paves the way for further innovations at Vacheron Constantin.

In 2015, Vacheron Constantin introduced the world’s most complicated watch, the Ref. 57260, to celebrate the company’s 260th anniversary. This year, not content to sit back after the major accomplishment of a record-breaking 57 complications in a single timepiece, the company has created yet another unique piece. The Maître Cabinotier Retrograde Armillary Tourbillon incorporates two of the Ref. 57260’s original complications, this time in a wristwatch (the anniversary “superwatch” is a pocket piece that spans 98 millimeters). Four patent applications have already been filed for the Maître Cabinotier, its movement showcased in a 45.7 mm white-gold case. Says Dominique Bernaz, the director of Vacheron Constantin’s Atelier Cabinotiers, “The Maître Cabinotier Retrograde Armillary Tourbillon model is the first piece born of the ‘superwatch’ project. It’s a remake of two of the Ref. 57260’s complications—the double retrograde indications and the armillary tourbillon—in a contemporary guise.”

These two complications are notable for both their technical mastery and their aesthetics. The watch incorporates sapphire crystal on the side of its case, allowing for a perfect view of the tourbillon carriage, which every 15 seconds aligns to create the Vacheron Constantin Maltese cross emblem. The tourbillon itself was inspired by an astronomical clock created by legendary clockmaker Antide Janvier in the 18th century. Bernaz says the armillary sphere “ … represents above all a technical challenge. Antide Janvier was certainly the most innovative clockmaker of all time. His clocks are still unequalled masterpieces two centuries after their creation. He remains a great example.”

As for the double retrograde indications, the instant flyback function of both hours and minutes is another mark of watchmaking prowess. “The instant fly back challenge was to make the twohands move back to 12 o’clock simultaneously,” says Bernaz. The watch’s hands must move so quickly that they had to be crafted of titanium for lightweight strength.

The timepiece also received a new escapement. Says Bernaz, “The specificity of this new escapement is that it is composed of high-tech materials like silicon and diamond pallet stones. It requires less energy to operate the tourbillon, which means a greater wear resistance with less friction. Therefore, this escapement contributes significantly to the performance of the watch, with more power reserve and durability (usually the escapement is made in steel with a ruby pallet-stone).” It’s no wonder, then, that Vacheron Constantin has applied for patents for four of this new masterpiece’s individual components: the instantaneous retrograde system, the titanium collet, the multi-carriage tourbillon, and the silicon lever.

And the innovation will continue at Vacheron Constantin as it has for the last 260 years. When asked if the company will be integrating more complications of the Ref. 57260 “superwatch” into future watch models, Bernaz replied, “It is certainly possible!”—Hyla Bauer