Interview by Jonathan Bues
How did you become involved in the watch industry?
I studied watchmaking in the Val-de-Travers and finished my studies at a precarious time in the watch industry, the “Quartz Crisis.” I didn’t want to stop using all the know-how I’d learned over the years by making quartz movements, and too many other manufacturers were already closing because of it, so instead I opened my own repair workshop. At Parmigiani Mesures & Art du Temps, I handled and restored timepieces, clocks, and automatons from hundreds of years ago. I started working on some very special and complicated timepieces for renowned brands, and eventually the Sandoz Family Foundation approached me about opening a Manufacture.
Do you remember your first watch?
My first watch was a very special piece, a gift from my father. It was an Olma watch in steel.
What is the one watch you would never part with?
The Parmigiani Ionica watch, which is the watch with my first in-house caliber (eight days shape movement).
What is your most memorable experience with a timepiece?
I particularly remember my first exposure to a Marine Chronometer, John Harrison’s H4. It is amazing how Harrison managed to make an accurate chronometer without having any experience in watchmaking.
What qualities define exceptional watch design?
For me, the ergonomic design of a timepiece is very important. The watch has to be comfortable. Secondly, it has to be elegant and harmonious and in full respect of the craftsmanship.
Which watch brand has surprised you the most this year?
No real surprise lately. I like to stay focused on our own path and our own identity.
If you didn’t work for a watch company, which industry would you like to work in, and for which brand?
If I hadn’t followed my passion for watchmaking, I think I would have been an architect. I believe it is a way we can express ourselves in large formats. I find this similar to watchmaking; timepieces are smaller in size, but that is why one must be sharper.
What is the biggest challenge facing the watch industry today?
I believe the biggest challenge is to keep the regional authenticity—similar to a good wine—and as a result to preserve the nobility of the local art knowledge in Switzerland. Particularly in Fleurier, through the Qualité Fleurier that highlights the craftsmanship in watchmaking.
Who is currently the most influential person in watches?
Philippe Stern of Patek Philippe, who stays close to the product and the techniques. He had the instinct and vision to collect the art of watchmaking and therefore help preserve watchmaking know-how. Franco Cologni of Richemont also comes to mind, when considering the strategy he has applied to his brands.
If your brand did not exist, which watch would you wear?
Breguet, Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, or the Shepherd Stick (a portable sundial). The Shepherd Stick is a nice representation of the rhythm of life, always considering the sun.