A high-society classic is resurrected in New York.

At a time when venerable Manhattan establishments like the Four Seasons Restaurant and The Campbell Apartment are shuttering thanks to the indomitable real estate market’s rising rents, the restoration of The Rotunda Room, inside Fifth Avenue’s iconic Pierre Hotel, is a welcome counter to the trend. A high-society watering hole for much of the 20th century, it debuts fresh design notes while restoring its extravagant Georgian style. Over the decades various cultural milestones crept into the aesthetic, such as patriotic adaptations during World War II and irreverent references during the ’60’s counterculture movement. Edward Melcarth’s 1967 mural with controversial depictions of society figures, including Jackie Kennedy and Erik Estrada, is still displayed on the oval room’s walls. (Not all original aspects were maintained; the tea service, for instance, was suspended after guests ceased to observe formal tea.) After purchasing the Pierre in 2005, the Taj Group commissioned the interior designer Alexandra Champalimaud to revamp the Grand Ballroom and Cotillion Room, but the lights at The Rotunda remained off until last summer. Melcarth’s trompe l’oeil Renaissance mural, with its mythical figures and baroque landmarks like Rome’s Trevi Fountain, inspired the makeover by architect Daniel Romualdez, who previously designed the on-site residential apartments. Medallion-style chairs and lime green banquettes ring the dining room, beneath a painted ceiling of popcorn clouds and blue sky. Executive pastry chef Michael Mignano’s cakes, truffles, and madeleines are replenished on a central table throughout the day, though come night the space is jolted alive with some of its old magic. A live jazz band plays in the background as diners sample executive chef Ashfer Biju’s relaxed supper menu, which includes Maine lobster tartine and Reuben melts. The Champagne is flowing again too, just like it was when Valentino Garavani, Elizabeth Taylor, and the rest of the Upper East Side aristocracy turned The Rotunda into their own glamorous hangout. – Shyam Patel