Watchmaking, with its attention to detail, complications and sublime designs, is often called an “art,” but this is more figurative than literal. Watches, you see, no matter how complicated, have a utilitarian purpose—displaying the time—while art’s purpose is more ethereal. When actual miniature paintings are produced on watch dials, however, art and watchmaking really converge.

A watch dial is a very small surface for reproducing fine art on, making this a very challenging business. Several companies have specialized in this métier d’art, and watch lovers everywhere are especially thankful to them for keeping the art alive.

Size Matters

“Métiers d’art dials indeed represent a challenge, not only in a technical sense, but also from the design and craftsmanship point of view,” explains Christian Selmoni, artistic director at Vacheron Constantin. “Depending on the series or subject, métiers d’art dials require a lot of technical skill and know-how, even for the simple making of a dial plate. In the example of a miniature painting dial, its material, its alloy characteristics, the way the dial plate is manufactured, and the necessary and exact thickness it requires are all of major importance before the craftsmen will start to envisage working on the dial.

“From a design and craftsmanship point of view, métiers d’art dials require a lot of skills, as the surface available is usually very small (often a diameter of around 30mm or smaller), and we have to create surprise, emotion and a lot of perceived value on such a small surface,” he continues. “The Métiers d’Art series truly demonstrates Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking art. In addition, Métiers d’Art pieces are creative, artistic watches and each new model or series represents a non-stop challenge, from conceptualization to manufacturing. In a sense, métiers d’art watches match well with Vacheron Constantin’s motto: ‘Do better if possible, which is always possible.'”

A Rare Breed

Christian Lattmann, executive vice president at Jaquet Droz, knows how much work and attention to detail goes into the miniature painting masterpieces at his brand. “The main difficulty is to find artists who are able to create these pieces of art,” he points out. “Even the painter’s brush takes months to make and adapt to the hand: it builds up its shape as the artisan paints with it. It also has to be cut to make it exactly the right size to paint the pupil of an eye, for instance, or the details of a face, or hair, or other very delicate features.

“In the 18th century, the watch masters in the Jaquet Droz family were pioneers in the art of luxury decoration, generating work for an entire generation of craftsmen,” he continues. “Today, Jaquet Droz continues the traditions of craftsmanship and fine decoration. Despite the difficulty, it’s important for us to perpetuate our savoir faire, which is part of our DNA. Jaquet Droz has placed time under the banner of astonishment, excellence and constantly renewed creativity—our Ateliers d’Art illustrates this perfectly.”

Watches with miniature paintings are masterpieces of métiers d’art and have become a staple at the highest end of watchmaking. The companies who help keep the métiers d’art alive continue to allow it to thrive by recruiting and training more artisans, ensuring that this art will not be lost to history.

In the métiers d’art category, miniature painting is the clearest example of fine art applied to fine watchmaking.

—Keith W. Strandberg