PLAY: In Situ

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The interior of In Situ

Inside SFMOMA’s new Snøhetta-designed extension, in a space just off the lobby, barriers dissolve between art and cuisine. Chef Corey Lee named the conceptual restaurant In Situ, after the art history term for “in its original place,” but nothing on the menu is, in fact, in situ. Lee, whose other San Francisco venture, Benu, scored a rare third Michelin star in 2014, sourced a rotating selection of recipes from the world’s best chefs—David Chang and René Redzepi, among them—reconstructing the dishes down to the garnish in his SoMa-based kitchen. For instance, New York chef Wylie Dufresne’s modern spin on traditional shrimp and grits, with the shrimp puréed to the consistency of the grits and served with pickled jalapeños and a drizzle of shrimp oil; or the chocolate cake with cold almond cream, bubbles, and cocoa by Andoni Luis Aduriz of the renowned Mugaritz in Spain.  The result is a 61-city culinary exhibition of sorts, with representatives from Hong Kong to Copenhagen to Houston, served inside a stripped-down space accented with blond wood design elements—a backdrop not so different from the whitewashed galleries with which the restaurant shares a roof. – Samantha Swenson