IWC launches a new limited edition flying tourbillon in honor of the company’s American founder.
So far, IWC’s year has been all about the pilot as far as most enthusiasts are concerned. The Mark XVIII made friends everywhere as it arrived as the brand’s new entry-level piece, and the balance of the Pilot line received a proper refresh. Now, it’s been a long time since SIHH, and as with any of the Richemont family, we couldn’t possibly expect to wait until 2017 to see more goodness from the manufacture in Schaffhausen. This past October, IWC delivered this little gem—an American-only limited-release take on the Portugieser Tourbillon hand-wound paying tribute to the company’s founder, Florentine Ariosto Jones.
Before we get into the specifics of the lovely red gold timepiece, there are likely a few readers asking themselves, “Wait, I thought IWC was Swiss?” It is, but the story has a little bit of a twist to it. F. A. Jones was born in New Hampshire, where he was apprenticed into the world of watchmaking at the age of 16. A trip to Europe sparked the idea of producing pocket watch movements in Switzerland for the American market, and soon the International Watch Company of Schaffhausen was born. His work is credited with bringing the American system of watchmaking to the Swiss; however, his vision of building and importing was ahead of its time, and it took less than a decade for investors to push him out of the business. Though his watchmakers voiced vehement support for Jones in an open letter, he found himself returning stateside, never to return to watchmaking.
But if F. A. Jones is IWC’s founder, and his name is signed across the dial, why is the piece named Edition D. H. Craig USA? 
When Jones built the Jones 2N Pattern H caliber—his most exceptional hand-wound movement—it bore the inscription of D.H. Craig. Back in the day, the idea of inscribing watches with the names of their influences (investors, mentors, and so forth) was quite common. Considering Jones’s uncle Daniel Hastings Craig was a significant influence in his life, as well as a financial supporter during the launch of the International Watch Company, the honor made complete sense. By signing the dial “F.A. Jones” and naming the piece after D.H. Craig, IWC is nodding to two of the most influential people in the storied brand’s history.
It’s no surprise that the timepiece isn’t vastly different from a standard model from IWC’s repertoire. The modern era of special editions is wrought with limited releases with next to no developments other than a quick change of dial or strap color. That said, this works well for the IWC D.H. Craig. While its standard-issue siblings are conventional additions to the Portugieser range, the D.H. Craig has a much more vintage vibe to it. It’s a bit surprising how a change of hands and indices can completely change the character of a watch. The other red gold Portugieser with gold hands and indices is a fine looking watch, but the addition of black indices and hands to its silver-plated dial adds to the pocket watch-inspired charm.
The internal workings of the D.H. Craig began to justify the price tag. IWC’s beautifully finished 98900 caliber has roots tied to the early caliber 98 from ‘30s-era pocket watches, though with 54 hours of power reserve and a one-minute flying tourbillon at the nine o’clock position, it’s safe to say the movement has evolved a fair bit over the years. More often than not, I’m unenthused about partially openworked dials. This type of design has been so badly tarnished by the $100 eBay special that I often find it hard to appreciate; however, in this case I can give IWC a pass. The gold accent surrounding the tourbillon adds an interesting detail to the dial that jives with the rest of the case, and though it isn’t a detail that earns it added bonus points, I’m not going to fault it either. That said, in the case of the white gold version, the hints of gold tones in the tourbillon look entirely out of place.
One detail that came as the biggest shock is its pricing. Coming in at $57,000 USD and limited to only 27 pieces, this is the second least expensive edition of the Portugieser Tourbillon Hand Wound to date. That’s right, it’s a mere $400 more expensive than the standard red gold model, and a whopping $4,000 cheaper than its white gold sibling. What’s even more shocking is that the red gold Metropolitan Boutique Edition, which is offered in a series of 50 rather than 27, is also more expensive than the D.H. Craig (offered at $62,100). If you’re in the market for a dressy tourbillon from IWC, the smart money is definitely on this new release, especially considering it’s hands down the best looking of the pack, if you don’t mind a signature on the dial.
In a year of incessant special editions and collaborations, it’s getting tougher and tougher for brands to stand out with this kind of release. I’ll admit that I’m growing tired of the practice altogether, but I’ll still hand it to IWC for at least producing a timepiece that makes sense while nodding to the brand’s heritage rather than falling into the trap of partnering with any and every willing brand or association.
If anything, I look at the D.H. Craig as an improvement on an existing piece, and one whose limited numbers will only add to its future collectibility. —Justin Mastine-Frost